The Magic of Candlemaking
Tracey
Candle making is
of time in which the human imagination has created beings about self-expression and experimentation. It is Chemistry, Art, Imagination, and Magic rolled into one. There are many factors that will affect the finished candle; type and size of wick, type or variety of wax, temperature, additives, type of mold, dye, scents, etc. Just remember that everyone who ever made candles started out in the same place you are; in the beginning.
Don’t be afraid to use your imagination and experiment with different molds, colors, and candle fragrances. The worst that can happen is that you will have to melt the candle back down and try again.
Candle making is quite safe as long as you follow some basic precautions. If basic safety precautions are taken, fire should not be a common problem. Be prepared anyway. Following these safety rules and taking precautions against fire will help you relax and enjoy your candle making even more.
NEVER leave melting wax unattended. Not even in a double boiler.
NEVER overheat wax. Know the flash point of your wax (usually about 375 degrees F. for paraffin). It will spontaneously combust when it reaches the flash point. If using wax of unknown flash point do not heat above 212 degrees F (such as in a double boiler). The fumes from overheated wax can cause severe illness, in case of an accident evacuate the area and ventilate it.
ALWAYS keep wax away from open flames.
ALWAYS use a thermometer. It is essential for both safety and good results that you always be aware of the wax temperature. A good quality Candy or Meat Thermometer will work just fine.
NEVER put water on a wax fire.
ALWAYS keep a pot lid, baking soda, and a dry chemical fire extinguisher handy when heating wax. Use the pot lid to smother fires in the melting container. Baking soda will smother small fires. A fire extinguisher is useful if you set the curtains on fire, or have some other major accident. These items should be kept outside of any area that may be affected by fire but still within easy access.
ALWAYS use pot holders, heat resistant gloves or pliers when handling hot pots of wax, or molds containing hot wax. If wax gets on your skin, run it under cold water immediately – then peel off the wax.
DON’T pour wax down the drain unless you like frequent visits from your plumber.
NEVER let candle making get so routine that you get careless.
WAX
There are many waxes available for candle making. Paraffin, bees wax, container candle wax are just to name a few. Many experienced candle makers recommend that beginners start with a general purpose paraffin wax which melts in the range of 135º-145º. As you progress into candle making, you will probably want to start experimenting with other types of waxes, and other melting points of paraffin.
ADDITIVES
There are many varieties of additives available to the experienced, as well as the beginner candlemaker. Here are descriptions of the most common additives:
Stearine – Also called stearic acid. This has been the standard paraffin additive for a very long time. Used to make wax harder, release from mold easier, and increase opacity of the wax. Use from five to thirty percent (three to five tablespoons per pound of paraffin). This is the easiest additive to find, and I recommend it for beginners.
Vybar – Available in low melting point (Vybar #260) and high melting point (Vybar #103). More economical to use than stearine. Improves color and scent retention. Difficult to find, and doesn’t always release from mold easily. Use one to five percent per pound of wax.
Plastics – There are a variety of plastic additives (mostly polyethylenes) that will improve gloss, opacity, translucence, strength, and hardness. Marketed under a variety of names such as luster crystals, opaque crystals, translucent crystals, etc. These are readily attainable, but are difficult to use due to their high melting point. Must be melted separately, then added to melted wax. General usage is from one half to two percent depending on the product. Not recommended for beginners.
FORMULA BASICS
The most accurate way to measure candle making products is by weight. If you have a candle product that requires absolute repeatability, there is no way to avoid buying an accurate scale. Smaller batches of wax require more accurate scales since you will be using small quantities of most ingredients. If a scale just doesn’t fit into your budget, all is not lost. Repeatable (although less accurate) results can be obtained with common measuring tools. Please note that for most candle makers the important thing is being able to reproduce results. While using measuring spoons and cups is not a very accurate way to work, it will suffice for most candle makers.
WICK
Wicking can be broken down into three categories – Flat, Square, and Wire Core. Flat and square are used for molded and dipped candles, wire core for floating, votive, and container candles.
To determine what type of wick you need to use for the type/size of candle you are making, take a look at the type of wax you are using, and the diameter of the candle mold. Candles made of bees wax require a much larger wick than those made from just paraffin. The reason for this is that bees wax has a higher melting point than paraffin, and a much smaller wax pool (the melted wax around the wick as the candle burns).If you plan on making bees wax molded candles, its best to use a square type wick. Bees wax votives can be made using a large wire cored, square braid wicking material. For paraffin candles, smaller wick sizes based on the diameter of the candle will work sufficiently. For a small mold use a small wick, etc.
To determine if you are using the right size/type of wick, make a test candle and perform a “test burn”. If the test burn of the finished candle shows a minimal wax pool the wick is too large for your wax formula. If your wax pool is drowning the wick by causing it to go out or have a small flame, go to a larger wick. The wick size is the easiest way to adjust how your candles burn, and it is important to keep in mind that changing your wax formula may require changes in wicking as well. If you don’t have another size wick handy, adjusting your wax hardness with more or less additives may help it burn correctly.
DYE
There are 2 main ways to color candles, dye and pigments. Most candle making is done with dye. Colored Dye blocks of wax are available at most hobby stores that carry candle making supplies. Pigments are very concentrated colors primarily used for over dipping and carved candles. As a general rule, never use pigments to color the core of a candle – the particles of pigment will clog the wick. Although it is common to see candle making instructions using crayons for color, this can also clog the wick. For the best results always use a dye specifically made for coloring candles. Wax colors will be lighter than they appear in the melting pot. To get an idea of the finished color place a drop of wax on a piece of white paper. An even better test is to put a half inch of wax in a paper cup and place it in the freezer, this will give you the exact finished color in a hurry. Keep in mind that wax additives affect the final color.
SCENT
Candle scent is available in a few different configurations. Synthetic fragrance oils, synthetic fragrance blocks of wax, and essential oils and blends.
Synthetic fragrance oils for candle making are available at most local hobby stores that carry candle making supplies. Fragrance oils work fine in paraffin candles or bees wax candles or a combination of both. A general rule of thumb is to use 1/4 oz. of fragrance oil to each pound of wax. Keep in mind that the quality of many fragrance oils varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Therefore, an oil from one manufacturer may be a lot more concentrated than one from a different manufacturer. Scent blocks are less expensive in comparison to the oils, but you basically get what you buy; i.e. whatever the manufacturer put in there. Oils give you the flexibility to blend more than one fragrance together for custom scents designed by you.
Essential oils are used in candle making in much the same way as fragrance oils are used. The cost for 100% pure essential oils is about 3 times the cost of synthetic fragrance oils per milliliter, but yields a mugh higher quality, aromatherapy grade candle. Essential oils are oils taken directly from botanical, renewable resources such as herbs and flowers by the process of steam distillation, or expulsion (pressing). Higher scent concentrations can usually be used, however too much scent can ruin a candle. Use caution with acrylic and plastic molds since high percentages of either synthetic or essential oil scent may ruin the mold.
MOLDS
There are infinite varieties of commercial molds available today, as well as an almost infinite number of everyday items that make good molds. The following instructions will utilize a commercially available metal mold. Most molds sold at hobby and craft stores come with their own set of instructions included in the package cost of the mold. It is highly advisable to read any and all instructions supplied by the manufacturer of the mold prior to making the candle. Here are some descriptions of mold types:
Metal Molds – Available in a broad variety of shapes, these are simple to use and relatively durable. Care must be taken to not drop, ding, or dent metal molds, as this causes defects in the finished candle and makes it a lot more difficult to remove the candle from the mold.
Acrylic Molds – Available in a variety of geometric shapes and sizes. They are easy to use, but are easily scratched. These tend to not be as durable as metal molds. Use caution as too much scent may damage these. Also, the silicone mold release used for the ease of candle removal will eventually damage acrylics.
Two Piece Plastic Molds – Available in a large assortment of novelty shapes. These are more difficult to use even though most beginners start with them. Plastic molds are much less durable than their metal or acrylic counterparts. Use caution as too much scent may damage these. Also, the silicone mold release used for the ease of candle removal will eventually damage plastics.
Rubber Molds – These are available in latex and vulcanized rubber. Both produce seamless candles, with the latex requiring a little more effort to use. Vulcanized molds tend to be expensive.
Top Up Molds – these are molds that are used the opposite of most candle molds – with the top of the mold being the top of the finished candle. Many floating candle and votive molds are used this way. These are easy to recognize by their lack of a wick hole.
Flat Molds – Used to make wax appliques and hanging ornaments. These generally do not produce good candles, but do make nice decorations to embellish your candles with.
When selecting your first mold, try to keep it simple. Read and familiarize yourself with the mold manufacturers instructions. The step by step instructions below are general guidelines for using a metal mold and you should modify them for your own situation.
RECORD KEEPING
One thing often overlooked by candle makers of all experience levels is the importance of keeping records. It would be a shame to develop your “ideal candle”, and not be able to reproduce your results. Keeping a notebook handy in your candle making area is very helpful. Some things to consider for your records are:
Type and quantity of wax.
Type and quantity of additives such as stearine, vybar, luster crystals, etc...
Type and quantity of dye.
Type and quantity of scent.
Type and size of wick.
Type and quantity of mold.
Pouring temperature.
TOOL LIST
Double boiler or old coffee can – may be a commercial double boiler, or use a coffee can in an old pot. Thoroughly cleansed, dried and de-labeled coffee cans are easy to acquire and use, and the plastic lid helps keep unused melted wax clean and free from particulate matter in storage after cooling the wax down completely.
Aluminum foil or old cookie sheet – old cookie sheets work splendidly in catching excess wax drippings and minor spills.
Thermometer – a candle or candy thermometer that clips to the pot works fine. Do not even consider making candles without a thermometer.
Pot holders, heat resistant gloves, or pliers — depending on whether you are using a pot or a can.
Molds
Mold Release – silicone spray is easiest to use, but it’s also available in liquid format. Peanut oil works well also.
Cutter for wicks
Wooden spoon – for stirring wax.
Dowel– for poking relief holes in molded candles. The thin wooden skewers available at your local grocery store work well for this.
Baking pan – at least eight inches square; numerous uses, but mainly for leveling the bottom of molded candles.
Small weight scale –for use in weighing the quantity of wax for your candle.
MAKING THE CANDLE
Step 1 – Put enough wax in your melting pot to fill your mold, with a little extra left over to compensate for any minor spills and to fill the shrinkage void in the candle as it cools. If you don’t have a scale to use, a good estimate may be made by dividing the slab into even sections. Add stearine at the rate of two-three tablespoons per pound of wax. Start heating in a double boiler, or place the melting can or pot onto a cookie sheet and place in oven on lowest rack at no more than 150 ºF. The latter option takes much longer to melt the wax initially, but holds the temperature of the wax at a more consistent level. If you are worried about spilling wax inside your oven, place sheets of aluminum foil on the bottom of the oven to catch any drips or spills prior to heating up your oven.
Step 2 – While your wax is heating, apply your mold release (gently – a little goes a long way). If you are using a commercially purchased metal mold, prepare the wick for the mold. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for this. Make sure that you have sufficiently plugged up the wick hole after inserting wick with the putty that is supplied with your mold kit. Prepare a water bath by submerging the empty mold in water and adding water until the level is about one half inch below the mold top. Take care not to get any water in your mold or wax – it will ruin your candle. It is easiest to add a mold weight at this time, typically a piece of lead wrapped around the base of the mold. A more difficult alternative is placing a heavy weight atop the filled mold once it is in the water bath – you must hold it down until the weight is in place though.
Step 3 – When wax reaches the pouring temperature, and this will vary depending on the type of wax you are using, shut off the heat or remove from oven and add dye (optional). Stir until well dissolved. Be aware that the higher the pouring temperature of the wax, the more shrinkage will occur as the candle cools. For paraffin, a pouring temperature of 150-160 is best. If desired, add scent and stir well immediately before pouring. A word of caution, excessive dye may cause the candle to burn poorly. Excessive scent may ruin some plastic molds and/or ruin the finished candle. Set aside remaining wax for step 5.
Step 4 – Pour the wax into the mold slowly but smoothly. On taller molds it sometimes helps to tilt the mold to prevent air bubbles from excessive agitation. Always wear heavy work gloves when handling molds filled with hot wax – especially metal molds. Wetting the gloves will give even more protection if needed. Gently tap the sides of the mold, and allow 45 seconds for the air bubbles to rise. Place the mold in the water bath.
Step 5 – Periodically punch one or more holes alongside the wick using a dowel of other long narrow implement. As the wax cools it shrinks, and punching holes prevents it from shrinking away from the wick causing air pockets. The larger the candle the more times you will need to repeat this. Fill the void left by shrinkage taking care not to pour above the original level of the wax. On very large candles, it may be necessary to repeat this step more than once.
Step 6 – Allow the candle to cool and cure fully before attempting to remove from the mold. The larger the candle the longer it takes. If the candle does not easily slide out of the mold, place it in a refrigerator for five to ten minutes. If you still have difficulty removing it, place in the freezer for no more than five minutes. If all else fails heat the mold with hot water until the candle will come out (this usually ruins the candle). Never pry or scrape the wax out of the mold.
Step 7 – If refrigeration was used to unmold the candle allow it to return to room temperature before proceeding. The final step is to level the base. Place your baking pan atop a pot of boiling water. Holding the candle by the wick, allow it to touch the pan until the base is flat and level. Trim the wick on the top of the candle to about 3/8 of an inch above the wax.
Step 8 – Enjoy your candle! Watch how it burns, and on your next one adjust your recipe to make it burn better if necessary. Relish in the fact that you have successfully created your own personal, one of a kind candle for yourself or a loved one!
Check out Tracey’s fabulous company - Country Cottage Works at www.countrycottageworks.com
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