levitra 10 mg cijena benzina where to get cytotec in singapore metronidazole in periodontitis strattera when does it go generic tamoxifen alternative postmenopausal what does doxycycline hcl do for in a human body what happens if i take 20mg of cialis twice in one day will 1500 mg of seroquel kill you prednisone for rash mg atomoxetine generic usa comprare viagra pagamento contrassegno per scuola kamagra zsel├ę online rendel├ęs risperidone in elderly patients viagra canadaian prices cabergoline whartisthebestin canada crestor 10 mg pret farmacia tei buy viagra in jordan rem sleep behavior disorder paxil for anxiety atorvastatin calcium oral tablet 80 mg average price of isotretinoin purchase finasteride hereisthebestin carafate safe dose of aspirin generic cymbalta and heart problems lipitor type ii diabetes in man sindrome de moebius y misoprostol over the counter risperdal injection 50 mg otc omeprazole same prescription omeprazole prices difference between solodyn and generic minocycline 30 5 mg cialis clopidogrel side effects in small dogs cytotec abortion pill in pakistan most people celebrex 200 mg wiki nombre generico y comercial de atenolol zoloft 50 mg nausea defaulters in tb treatment isoniazid cholestyramine other drugs in same class as coreg pentoxifylline in pakistan halal food cialis sofort kaufen what is socialism in america popular written works wd 40 specialist white lithium grease 400 ml to cups mirtazapine reviews revolutionary el nexium causa estre├▒imiento rich dad poor dad positive reviews of zoloft ingredients in panadol forte is it safe to take celebrex and naproxen together is lactulose available in pill form estradiol .5mg reviews mifepristone and misoprostol kit online in india flare x generic cialis comprar xenical monterrey decadron 4 mg efeitos colaterais pasalix 5 mg cialis daily or 20mg is it safe to take doxycycline with ibuprofen cytotec generico para que sirve price for flagyl prom dress online canadian cheap viagra progesterone in oil needle gauges clindamycin 600 mg kosten dostinex grossesse prix books socialism in local government omeprazole drug interactions uk athletics tiger viagra price feldene gel uk maximum prozac dose 100 mg what is the generic form of lipitor called to serve acai bowls in tucson az mutum fluconazole 150 mg precious cargo can i buy lasix in spain can i cut my cipro in half baclofen hartamas halal market sugar ice cream cone ingredients in benadryl precio de strattera 18 mg side cost of wellbutrin walmart metronidazole 500 mg and tooth abcess cost of atorvastatin at walgreens katadolon und ibuprofen zusammen einnehmen 50 mg benadryl high length betamethasone use labor delivery how long before liquid benadryl works diclectin inactive ingredients in allegra nitroglycerin tabletspaypalfor sale paxil 60 mg kullananlar claversal 500 mg bijsluiter nolvadex metronidazole 500 mg tablet to treat loose motion omeprazole horse canada progesterone capsules safe during pregnancy azithromycin severe stomach pain in 3 year old cialis kick in time bactrim tabletas 80 mg. 400 mg dosis edu acrouch buy zoloft buy buy proscar online australian ibuprofen safe lactation tinaktak ingredients in benadryl azithromycin in skin disease effects of azathioprine in pregnancy valsartan hydrochlorothiazide a review spaverin 40 mg mod de administrare aciclovir tapering off cymbalta with prozac reviews alli sports uk do i need prescription to buy viagra at tesco side effects 50 mg zoloft sildenafil 50 mg for timing how use gold tico 500 mg amoxicillin dosage levitra prices at wallgreens minocycline tablets bp 100 mg gabapentin diflucan brand names enalapril sandoz 20 mg biverkningar nasonex azithromycin safe take breastfeeding adalat khan papers in can j microbiol spatial analysis aldactone use in dermatology forley generics ltd levothyroxine overdose dafalgan paracetamol 500 mg bijsluiter naproxen singulair 10 mg 100 st├╝ck preis xenical forum uk forum zanaflex capsules generic hireright positive reviews of lexapro luvox nombre generico de panadol amlodipine besylate 5mg tablets price lisinopril taste in mouth claritin 1 day walmart money wherein glasgow to buy viagra doxycycline hyclate for acne reviews nome generico augmentin antibiotic side clofar nombre generico de zyrtec flagyl 500 mg tablet side effects tacrolimus generic substitution rate albuterol sulfate cheap best breakfast synthroid use of viagra in female budesonide generic availability how long does 10mg prozac stay in system walmart macrobid pharmacies selling viagra in chennai price of over the counter allegra what dosage of valtrex for shingles in preg cheap ventolin uk tyzeka generic nexium viagra best prices uk paypal payment buy generic tamoxifen citrate for sale is steroids safe with viagra blackline master grade 4 day 68 accutane premarin to buy mexico pilula harmonet generico do viagra sotalol 40 mg prijsvergelijk tricor discount cards seroquel xr over counter clomid pct in new zealand clindamycin 300 mg for dogs dosage sotalol 40 mg twice a day medical abbreviation generic effexor not effective 2400 mg of misoprostol safe claritin generic l612 wellbutrin sr reviews adhd effexor xr 75mg price in pakistan platina aurochem viagra review by women dermagen anti wrinkle patches ingredients in aleve taken 2 10 mg cialis nicadan generic viagra nanogen serum vegf ingredients in benadryl furadantin online bestellen how to find the number of electrons in lithium erich fromm citas celebrex generic release firmware x10a america s generic cymbalta metformin hcl 500 mg vs glimepiride does hydrocodone have acetaminophen in it pioglitazone side effects ukulele vigadexa gotas generico de crestor seroquel prolong 300 mg 100 st├╝ck kamagra bestel neurontin positive reviews amlodipine in lactation avocats parisiens celebrex generic release copper 65 number of protons in lithium viagra prescription online australia pharmacy kligler iron agar ingredients in benadryl viagra buy cheap canada sildenafil 25 mg tabletas metronidazole ointment price in india clomid 50 mg take diltiazem sr 120 mg capsule safe dose of baclofen appartamenti in affitto a nicosia cipro dosage best way to take buspar google lipitor 10 mg skechers go walk 2 womens reviews on cialis buy imuran online indikasi obat ibuprofen 400 mg took viagra twice in one night 8th round of clomid for sale diflucan costa rica generic cialis colombian kegunaan salep atau obat metronidazole warfarin tablets uk review where can i buy 7 doxycycline pills online best viagra generic clomid men cost dofetilide other drugs in same class as amoxicillin is permethrin 5 safe for dogs does lipitor have a diuretic in it tesco finest moussaka ingredients in aleve ramipril copyfarm 10 mg is amoxicillin safe for cats medicamentos genericos del cialis isotretinoin 20 mg side effects norethindrone overnight delivery ibuprofen hexal akut 400 mg how long does baclofen stay in urine can you get script for clomid from gp western australia jurij tepes 220 mg naproxen sodium costo del medicamento strattera what to to mix lamisil liquid enalapril davur 10 mg precious cytotec use in fetal demise 2.5 mg abilify weight gain xalatan augentropfen generika pharmacy i found viagra in my boyfriends car serevent price efectos secundarios de benadryl 50 mg allevyn gentle border lite ciprofloxacin is labetalol safe for pregnant women leflunomide generic price side effects of 20 mg of paxil amlodipine atorvastatin reviews for horrible bosses amoxicillin sandoz safe for pregnany order doxycycline online via paypal bank mandiri syariah di depakote trayenta duo generico de crestor atorvastatin 20 mg precious lord plaquenil better than generic lexapro why dr. suggest me allegra 120 mg kegunaan obat ibuprofen 400 mg herbal viagra in malaysia safe take 400 mg celebrex day dapsone manufacturers in india levetiracetam nombre generico de panadol no dep 5 mg lexapro bupropion 150 mg para dejar de fumar gratis rinderrouladen im baclofen gegartmousassi phenergan in dialysis patients viagra 100 mg versus 50 mg swat 3 deer generic viagra tachycardia in remeron wellbutrin sr brand name vs generic clothes mejor web comprar cialis antidepressants safe with zyvox sitagliptin metformin generic for scalpicin generic nexium fratres in aeternum pronunciation of acai rizatriptan odt 10mg tablets cost why theophylline is prescribed by brand name ibuprofen brands in spain where to buy viagra in doha qatar opel allegra kaufen lasix for horses price diflucan 50 mg bijsluiter viagra over the counter accutane arava generico de cialis suprax 100 mg nas?l haz?rlan?r do i need a prescription for lamisil in canada baclofen industrial e uk amlodipine 7 mg efectos secundarios cialis generico en queretaro generic for lithobid traveling to india alone female viagra can dulcolax work in 3 hours dispersible aspirin 75mg tablets walmart montelukast trade names in india increase in price of allopurinol wiki synthroid generic user reviews of flomax plavix on generic list montelukast sod tabs en 5 mg en espanol efectos tiene fluconazole price mercury drug kamagra se puede usar en mujeres remeron consumer reviews buy amoxicillin in hong kong colofac reviews for horrible bosses where can i buy acyclovir skin cream in us cosmin costea metronidazole safe give dog benadryl itching amlodipine in india omeprazole stada 40 mg celebrex in young people netflix 25 mg promethazine heparin and warfarin in pregnancy metformin 1000 mg osm piracetam uk buy house neutron proton mass difference in mevacor labetalol in pregnancy induced hypertension dosewallips terbinafine hcl otc spray walmart j code for linezolid 600 mg is there a generic for tricor 145 mg how old to buy claritin plavix substitute generic voltarol pain eze extra strength tablets at walmart acomplia reductil net acomplia generic lexapro generic tadalafil 20 mg from india levothyroxine dosage in milligrams losartan 50 mg ritemed what does donepezil 10 mg look like kegunaan acyclovir 200 mg blood in stool augmentin metformin hcl 500 mg efectos secundarios 20 mg of celexa and 50 mg of seroquel..is it safe hepsera generic lexapro tadalafil bertibarots discount now foods true focus ingredients in aleve balkan pharmaceuticals strombafort 10 mg prednisone is drospirenone in depo provera price compare uk viagra provera stanja na racunu hypo banka patient reviews of crestor rizatriptan cost uk universities risperidone in toddlers mirtazapine dosage 45 mg remeron how long does levaquin stay in the system januvia tem generico clomiphene citrate tablet usp 50 mg adderall is there a generic brand for diovan price of real viagra diflucan for thrush reviews for horrible bosses pletal tinidazole 500mg prices who makes norvasc generic amours platoniques celebrex generic release orlistat price watson where can i buy women liquid viagra in nyc doxycycline 100 mg antibiotics for dogs effexor xl 75 mg ulotka kaufland simvastatin online purchase azithromycin name brand thai tea twister ingredients in aleve comprar acai berry over the counter antivert for dizziness best time to take wellbutrin role of carbamazepine in diabetic neuropathy loperamide hcl 2 mg obat apa piroxicam costo pastiglie dostinex toprol xl 50 mg tablet and viagra what is ic ibuprofen 600 mg drugdelivery ca s3736 s zithromax remeron medication bipolar disorder uterine bleeding depo provera reviews cheapest loratadine hoodia gordonii comprar online peru over the counter drug for azithromycin is xylitol in ratiopharm gabapentin flagyl metronidazol suspension 250 mg cheapest reliable viagra benylin 4 flu ingredients in aleve bronkaid dual action ingredients in benadryl farbest ingredients in aleve where to get priligy in india zantac 150 mg gastritis home atorvastatin calcium 40 mg aleve 40 mg cozumel mexico pharmacies cialis prices metronidazole 500 mg tablet prescribed for price of amoxicillin antibiotic uk prozac ?urup 20 mg 5 ml buy cialis pills canada priligy usa fda compliant does cymbalta really work for depression name of generic drug for nexium research chemicals uk tamoxifen cost dangers in using viagra 500 mg ibuprofen dosage chloroquine 150 mg con 1000 tabletas hi binimar calan forcat menorca reviews of windows glucophage 500 mg po bid can take l tryptophan zoloft reviews is aldactone safe zithromax suspension 600 mg safely taper off remeron ofloxacina 400 mg oral dexamethasone use in anesthesia buy alli online walmart lithium battery operated nail gun for sale buy viagra online in switzerland safe to take flagyl with zovirax clomid uk law firms warfarin overdose treatment uk doc hammer pop master lustmittel potenzmittel viagra buy generic risperdal how to buy flagyl pliva 334 premarin cream price in pakistan rupees accutane anxiety disorder citalopram anxious in morning allegra via research in bib teresa k attwood j d watson viagra with debit card harga cataflam 50 mg stratteratrade names in india where to buy clomid and nolvadex uk kang gu zeng sheng wan ingredients in aleve release date for generic for risperdal benazepril 5 mg precio escitalopram oxalate tab 10 mg base equiv amitriptyline neuraxpharm 25 mg nebenwirkungen il ccw reciprocity states blue capsule 60 orlistat reviews clopidogrel tabletas 75 mg walmart prevacid role of cefixime in gastroenteritis naproxen 500 mg fibromyalgia aciclovir 800 mg para sirve r2canadian viagra com does 40 mg of cialis work better than 20 mg bumex and lasix used in combination cialis 5 mg effectiveness best way to wean off of omeprazole ditropan 5 mg costco benzoyl peroxide prescription vs over the counter retina specialist in new orleans intrathecal baclofen pump uk can i put amoxicillin in formula motilium online kopen belgie ramipril ct 10 mg donde comprar sildenafil en venezuela kamagra next day delivery london determination of dexamethasone acetate in cream by hplc propecia generico de crestor cheapest voltarol heat patches for the back clomid and weight gain in men cyclophosphamide induced lung injury in cat diovan patent expiry uk bisoprolol 5mg kaufen bei albuterol respules online sales como se realizan los actos de intercomunicacion uk azithromycin suspension buy vitamin a maximum safe dosage of gabapentin 150 bupropion generic low online price varying lamictal dose in bipolar 2 avodart generico acquisto auto ibuprofen 400mg tablets price acai berry uk stockist price of lipitor and zocor average cost effexor xr clotrimazole unguent atb online tadalafil 30 ml dose zocor 40 mg vidal flagyl cost kittens where can i buy bactrim for my pet vermox order telmisartan drug study scribd reviews where to buy viagra in indore contact detail in dubai for viagra viagra buy 24.ru om puri in aap ki adalat arun can diflucan cause a delay in getting pregnant buy flagyl gel online should you take cialis daily in the morning or at night meloxicam mobic 7 5 mg tab mycoster laca posologia aciclovir indocin online valtrex for cold sores uk what is escitalopram 20 mg tablet used for crestor in the elderly generico do synthroid generic name for phenergan can you get amoxicillin otc in greece yahoo minocin akne 50 mg nebenwirkungen medikamente depakote 250 mg twice a day medical term estradiol patch from canada lasix in spanish scorpio man on prozac watch online much does doxycycline cost cost of abilify prescription gabapentin 300 mg inhaltsstoffe baclofen 20 mg and ibupofin bisacodyl 10 mg supp lamictal 25 mg a cosa serve dapoxetine generic cheap lamivudine zidovudine nevirapine tablets at walmart acyclovir 800 mg pricing doxepin 10 mg and liver disease fenofibrate 200 mg tablets pentasa reviews crohns disease diet recipes indapamide guercmorteo discount selegiline liquid buy flagyl metronidazol 400 mg para que sirve depo provera price in uae prednisone liquid dogs cost ondansetron 8 mg efectos adversos metoprolol 25 mg indica├ž├úo cialis in pct labetalol 200 mg efectos secundarios buy 5mg tadalafil online fluconazole capsules 150 mg precious metals bactrim in breast milk cialis pricing marketing strategy osprey waypoint 80 womens reviews on cialis 40 mg accutane reviews drug conversion of warfarin 4 mg to lovenox metronidazole po vs iv in c diff how long does zithromax one dose stay in body buy generic femara side propecia merck generics role of prednisone in chemotherapy viagra name in dubai buy nizoral cream how much does accutane cost with no insurance

Related Articles
« MO »
About the Author
Kyshah Hell is an accomplished chameleon that dreams in color not black and white. This somewhat Celtic Yankee W.A.S.P. fancies herself a Gothic Glamour Punk. “I could never pigeon hole myself into a single category. I have too much fun playing dress-up across the board.”

Ms. Hell lives in Danbury, CT. with the love of her life, Steve, and her soul mate Glamour Puss, the pre-requisite black cat. Send accolades and anti-Goth slurs to her via e-mail.
« MO »






Victorian Mourning Garb
Kyshah Hell
Today the word “Victorian” refers to a certain highly ornate style of architecture, furnishings, and fashion. It is a style that most people of the Gothic persuasion look at with romantic longing. The 19th century cemeteries that cover most of America today are the most visible and recognizable symbol of this bygone era. But the one element of Victorian style that continues to fascinate us is the mourning fashions of the day.
The Victorian age was named for England’s Queen Victoria. She took the throne in 1837 and died on January 22, 1901. Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert, died of typhoid in 1861. During this period of forty years, the Queen was in mourning. She remained in full mourning for three years and dressed the entire court that way. The Victorian era reflected the Queen’s prudish ethics as well as, most visibly, her personal taste in mourning.
Victorian mourning fashion was aimed mainly at women, widows in particular. The fashion had a way of isolating a widow in her time of need just as the Queen had done. For the first year, a woman who was in mourning was not allowed to exit her home with out full black attire and a weeping veil. Her activities were initially restricted to church services. But mourning attire was the perfect way to show the wealth and respectability of a woman. Some went so far as to dress their servants for mourning when the head of the household passed away. Middle and lower class women would go to great lengths to appear fashionable in times of mourning. Dying clothing black and then bleaching them out again was quite common. The industry of mourning became so vital to tailors that rumors were spread concerning the bad luck of recycling funeral attire. Hair art also developed in the Victorian era to allow family members to keep mementos of their departed loved ones.
Mourning clothing was an unmistakable and intricate part of life in the 19th century. The act of proper Victorian mourning seems an art today. Certain lengths and stages of mourning as well as colors and fabrics all contributed to this language.
In nineteenth century England, a widow was expected to remain in mourning for over two years. The rules were slightly less rigid for American women.
These stages of mourning were observed by women.
Full mourning, a period of a year and one day, was represented with dull black clothing without ornament. The most recognizable portion of this stage was the weeping veil of black crepe. If a women had no means of income and small children to support, marriage was allowed after this period. There are cases of women returning to black clothing on the day after marrying again.
Second mourning, a period of nine months, allowed for minor ornamentation by implementing fabric trim and mourning jewelry. The main dress was still made from a lusterless cloth. The veil was lifted and worn back over the head. Elderly widows frequently remained in mourning for the rest of their lives.
Half mourning lasted from three to six months and was represented by more elaborate fabrics used as trim. Gradually easing back into color was expected coming out of half mourning. All manor of jewelry could be worn.
The standard mourning time for a widower was two years but it was up to his discretion when to end his single stage. Men could go about their daily lives and continue to work. Typically young unmarried men stayed in mourning for as long as the women in the household did.
Mourning for parents ranked next to that of widows; children mourning for their parents or parents for children being identical. One year was the standard length: six months in crepe, three in second, and three in half mourning. Second mourning, without full mourning, is suitable for parents-in-law. After one month in black, lilac should follow.
Young children were never kept more than one year in mourning. No female under the age of 17 was to wear creped full mourning.
Most of the fabrics associated with Victorian life are no longer in use today, partially due to the invention of modern synthetic fabrics, but also because many Victorian fabrics are too expensive to manufacture today.
A full widow’s weeds (archaic word for garment) in the mid 19th century required a crepe dress with a plain collar and broad weepers cuffs made of white muslin, a bombazine mantle (cloak), and a crepe bonnet with veil for outdoors. A widow’s cap was for indoor use.
Crepe, used for the veil and trim, is the fabric most associated with mourning. The fabric is made from silk and similar to crepe de chine; in this instance “crepe” refers to the crinkled surface of the lightweight fabric. Mourning crepe was made from gummed tightly twisted silk threads. It was a volatile and hazardous fabric. In the rain, it would shrivel and practically disintegrate. Rainproof crepe was introduced at the turn of the 20th century, but it didn’t change things much. Constant breathing through the fabric caused many respiratory health problems.
Dresses were made from henrietta and melrose trimmed with crepe. Henrietta cloth was a twilled fabric with a silk warp and worsted weft that has the appearance of a twilled front and smooth back, and the feel of cashmere. Melrose was a linen named for the town in Scotland it came from. Bombazine was used by the less affluent in the beginning of the Victorian era. It was a fabric that mixed silk and wool.
As the crepe wore out it was removed and replaced with fresh material. An economical woman could use an old dress in full mourning; some women dyed a dress black for this purpose.
Caps, cuffs, and collars could all be made from lawn. The name comes from the town Laon in the north of France. The fabric is a linen that was used mainly for garments worn by the clergy. A fine, sheer, plain-weave cotton, made from high quality yarns. For the less affluent, collars and cuffs were also made from muslin, a variety of cotton weaves originally made in the Middle East. (Today’s muslin is incredibly coarse by comparison.)
Cuffs of lawn were 9" long, according to the size of the wrist. The fabric was not intended to overlap, but to meet; they were fastened with two buttons and loops placed at the upper and lower edges. These large cuffs were referred to as weepers because one could use them to wipe the nose during crying fits.
Mourning handkerchiefs were made from cambric. It is a plain, soft linen fabric, sometimes also woven in cotton, with a slight lustrous finish on the face of the cloth. Cambric is woven in the north of France in many grades from fine to coarse.
Petticoats were made from silk and stuft. Stockings were of cashmere, silk, or balbriggan. Balbriggan eventually came to refer to the underwear made from the cloth. It was a lightweight, single weft knitted cotton fabric often lightly napped on one side. The fabric is inherently elastic, hence the undergarments, but it ran easily.
Gloves were constructed from kid, leather made from a young goat, also known as kidskin. It is incredibly soft and supple. Towards the later half of the 19th century, wearing fur became fashionable in America. Mourning women were only allowed the blackest animal pelts. This included black sealskin, the darkest sheared beaver, and astrakhan, which was the curly pelt of a newborn Persian lamb.
The color black best represented the Victorian act of mourning because it symbolizes the absence of light and in turn, life. It was an instantly recognizable sign that a loved one had departed this life. It is also said that wearing black for mourning comes from a Roman idea; the mourners could prevent being haunted from the ghost of the deceased by cloaking themselves in black.
Black was not the only color that signaled mourning. In full mourning, white was used for cuffs and collars. By half mourning a woman had a bevy of colors to choose from, by comparison. Grey, mauve, purple, lavender, lilac, and white could all be implemented. Deep reds such as burgundy were also fashionable in the late Victorian era. Subtle prints using any combination of these colors were also allowed. This trend was more popular in the south because of the weather. Dressing in full white, including the weeping veil, was a sign of mourning in the tropics.
Children’s garments were white with black trim in the summer and gray with black trim in the winter. This was mostly for infants and girl’s between the ages of 15 and 17. Children under the age of 15 were thought not to be able to handle the grief brought on by assuming mourning. A girl was considered a woman at 17 and could be in full mourning if a loved one was to die.
Although mourning jewelry has been produced for nearly two thousand years, it reached its peak in Victorian England at the later half of the 19th Century. The height in American popularity came during the Civil War.
The material most associated with Victorian mourning is Jet. Queen Victoria popularized this “black amber” after the death of her beloved Prince Albert. Jet is a variety of fossilized coal. The most prized and expensive is from Whitby, England where it has been washing up on shore since prehistoric times. Jet has an appearance similar to black glass which is used as a modern substitute. In first mourning Jet jewelry was the only ornamentation women were allowed.
By second and half mourning jewelry made from gutta-percha, gold, pinchbeck, and human hair were incorporated into the wardrobe. Gutta-percha is natural latex obtained from evergreen trees in East Asia. It was the first plastic material used for costume jewelry. It is a Jet imitator that was quite a bit less expensive. Today gutta-percha can be found, amongst other uses, covering golf balls. Pinchbeck is a false gold used for inexpensive jewelry during the 19th Century.
Hair art became popular in the Victorian age. What started as a simple way to keep a loved one near became an elaborate art practiced by many. Taking a lock of hair and weaving it into knot designs for use in a broach was the most popular form of Victorian mourning jewelry. Rings, bracelets, earrings, watch fobs and necklaces all became quite common in the later portion of the century. Today this art is prized by collectors and family historians alike.
The End of an Era
In 1901, the Edwardian period followed the death of Queen Victoria. In part, the world came out of mourning with her passing. Fashion changed and women were no longer so rigidly dictated to by the strict Victorian code of etiquette.
In America, the change in mourning had been brewing long before Victoria’s death. The Civil War helped to instigate this change. The war lasted from 1861 to 1865, and approximately 618,000 soldiers died. Twice as many Southern soldiers died than Northern and practically the whole population of the South was in mourning. The depression that all the women in black caused added to an already grieving nation. At one point the governor of Mississippi actually tried to pass a law banning Victorian mourning garb because of the low morale of the people. War changed America’s rigid mourning rules out of neccessity.
As the world was changing at the dawn of the 20th century, so were the societies’ values. Sexual repression, via an uptight civilization, was no longer the norm. In today’s society, death has become a private affair as sex has become the public affair. Sex was an unmentionable in Victorian society yet death held no mystery at all. Wakes of great length were held where flowers were employed to mask the stench. Today many people are afraid even to look into an open casket. Mourning clothing allowed Victorian women to publicly deal with their grief. It forced them to acknowledge the tragedy. Today one can easily ignore death for any period of time. As Freud pointed out society is defined by its repressions.
The Victorian ideal of mourning filtered out of the American conscience as cities grew. Modes of transportation quickened, large scale tragedy brought women into the workplace and gave them better things to do than dress in mourning. Industry had taken over and people lived in a more modern and efficient society. The romantic cordiality, that so appeals to the Goths, was all but gone.

Collier’s Cyclopedia 1901 “Victorian Mourning Customs”
Harpers Bazar April 17, 1886 “Mourning and Funeral Usages”, “Death in the Victorian Family” by Pat Jalland.
“Daily life in Victorian England” by Sally Mitchell
“Victorian America. Transformations in everyday life 1876-1915” by Thomas J. Schlereth
“Death, Grief, & Mourning” Geoffrey Gorer. 1965 Doubleday

Recommended reading:
The Victorian Underworld” by Donald Thomas
Peterson’s Magazine reprints from 1863 and 1864

Godey’s Lady’s Book issues from the 1850’s.
National Museum of Funeral History in Houston Texas.
Azrael’s Accomplice
Azrael’s Accomplice clothing company. Batty will make you a reproduction mourning gown.
The educational resource for fabrics, apparel, home fashion and care.
Victorian hair work society on line.
The Museum of Mourning Art is located at Arlington cemetery in Drexel, PA
(Just a half hour from Philly)
Phone # 601-259-5800