puedo tomar el bactrim se estoy lactando generic orlistat philippines zoloft 100mg side effects is trazodone a barbiturate gynacomastia treatment with tamoxifen tabs lasix versus bumex cipro price rite aid levofloxacin 500 mg can be taken with cetirizine luxury hotel rome viagra sales online misoprostol 800 mcg rzltt.com dutasteride hair loss dosage can a general practitioner prescribe viagra quetiapine 25mg fluconazole when can i drink alcohol gerd nexium twice daily 80 mg cytotec on 14 weeks pregnant metronidazole 400 mg 3 times a day in pregnancy how soon does bactrim work for uti doxepin 60 mg fluconazole vidal chat viagra cheap india pharmacy lexapro 20mg switch to zoloft 100mg reviews orkzbar.nl albuterol inhaler 90 mcg j code pyridium dosage alcohol and ciprofloxacin zofran zydis 4 mg 6 tablet paroxetine online bestellen zonder recept viagra for sale co uk digoxin 981 does amoxicillin himox treat boils pestoff.co.nz ketoconazole for dogs nz 6 prednisone in 1 night synthroid dose 225 barneptun.pl plavix 75 mg clopidogrel side effects levitra prices in kamloops pharmacies buy propecia bosley aap ki adalat all episode list zostavax after prednisone therapy bactrim suprim side effects ubicinc.com celebrex 100mg tri ve gi side affects of nexium lipitor cost of development bieropholie.com prednisone dog time to onset is bactrim ds used to treat trichomonas propranolol keep awake doxycycline and seroxat metronidazole shoppers sertraline sandoz 50mg side effects clotrimazole vs ketoconazole whats more effective 50mg or 100mg of clomid lugares donde vendan cytotec en panama blindness withdrawal symptom zyprexa 2.5mg no rx fish antibiotics nexium 20 mg subsitution iui clomid dosage price levitra india cytotec 500mg is best administered thru travelbllgr.com atomoxetine transdermal can i buy metronidazole cream over the counter citalopram to last longer in bed allegra 45 tablets nolvadex 5mg for men nameai.com it.rbu.ac.in common side effects of clonidine buy propecia shops reaction to amoxil forte in todlers how much does it cost for 200 milligrams seroquel xr g6pd and albuterol sulfate inhaler order lipitor non stimulant weight loss supplements with lexapro singulair 10 mg walgreens clopidogrel cena leku about emmox amoxicillin nameai.com 875 mg of amoxicillin twice a day buspirone online uk atorvastatin 40 mg recall can viagra stop working metformin 2 pills twice a day celexa 80 mg dose voltaren emulgator gel 40 empiresafety.com ciprofloxacin suspension 125mg niziral 60ml ketoconazole shampoo online quetiapine fumarate for sleep metformin hcl 500mg tab cua my gia nhieu can u snort trazodone 50 mg nameai.com celebrex para que sirve acyclovir famciclovir mercury drug when should i give my dog cyproheptadine cytotec sale online stopping atorvastatin side effects is taking trazodone and duloxetine dangerous holidayhome.rbu.ac.in viagra price bangalore brand viagra delivery bactrim dose for skin abscess bupropion 300 mg xl side effects can men take ciprofloxacin 500 mg quanto costa il levitra 10 mg varun zaveri removed from adalat prometrium makes your skin glow how do i withdraw from zyprexa2.5 viagra 500mg metoprolol orion 23.75 mg prezzo zovirax 200 mg zyprexa po im conversion cipro out of pocket cuando tienes bebe y tomas cytotec puede lactar esomeprazole side effects uk walmart lexapro price without insurance prednisone chapped lips ciprofloxacin 500mg tablets para que sirve can you take ibuprofen with lexapro and terazadone can you take iron tablets with sertraline holidayhome.rbu.ac.in kamagra 100mg oral jelly uk montelukast anlami ne zyprexa velotab ta 4115 metronidazole 500mg how to treat partner nzjetski.co.nz where can i buy misoprostol in pampanga philippines terbinafine 250mg used to treat jock itch do you take metformin before surgery citalopram hydrobromide vs escitalopram buy propecia 90 amoxicillin 800mg capsules hot flashes strattera alfilo finasteride lisinopril withdrawal symptoms a comprehensive view various brands for tb telmisartan can you take cipro while on suboxone how mirtazapine increases acetylcholine indomethacin 25 not working for gout v8 juice and coumadin amlodipine no prescription does grapefruit seed extract interfere with fluconazole indikasi obat pronicy cyproheptadine hcl can you use fluconazole for mold poisoning where can i find clomid pills cozaar 100 mg bid can i buy azithromycin over the counter in the usar augmentin benadryl pestoff.co.nz 7th day on lexapro will erythromycin effect mrsa testing composicion quimica de plavix metformin dosage for weight loss amoxicillin 590 einnahme fluoxetine 20 mg reviews mail order sildenafil citrate nexium pack and drink alcohol buy augmentin 625 14 tab dog prednisone no prescription 9 mg of coumadin premarin 0.625 mg bula medicamento anafranil 75 mg can take flagyl500mg with paracetamol imipramine 50 mg tab fluconazole tablet usp 150 mg for ringworms amoxicillin 500 causes urine smell it.rbu.ac.in cialis 5 mg vs 10 mg nzjetski.co.nz viagra tablet side effect hindi language feedback septra ds alternates is it safe to take 5mg of crestor and .88 synthroid clopidogrel harga generik indonesia azithromycin for chiken po naproxennaproxen for severe back pain diltiazem 180 mg cd cap ame side effects of escitalopram 20 mg with acohol travelbllgr.com erythromycin mercury drug can levofloxacin treat tooth infection orkzbar.nl harga chloramphenicol salep is alcohol permitted while taking amlodipine bestylate fungi obat wiros piroxicam 20mg jual obat mifepristone dan misoprostol disurbaya amoxicillin tiamulin poisoning buy viagra onli ne albuterol 2 puffs can 1 capsule mylan fluconazole 200mg taken weekly cual es la alergia terbinafine hcl 250 mg para que sirve azithromycin 200 mg trazodone 300 mg street value generic viagra quick delivery side effects of ciproton in detail buy thyroxine for dogs online revista caras online is seroquel available in india does depakote or paxil show up on urine drug screen orkzbar.nl long term side effects doxycycline amoxicillin doses per ml over the counter alternative for metronidazole how much is phenergan without insurance street worth buspirone can i take cozaar and drink hibiscus tea kamagra 100 mg jel yan etkileri estradiol 225 cytotec a los 6 meses de embarazo ondansetron gg 928 interaction entre chloramphenicol et cotrimaxol atarax i lergigan ulotka dla pacjenta flomax for kidney stones pass seamen donde puedo comprar las pastillas cytotec en el tachira accutane 10 mg dose bieropholie.com topamax reviews migraine para que sirve doxazosin tablets usp 8mg how much do 10 pills cytotec cost in south africa buy amoxicillin online walmart does amoxicillin 500 make you feel bloated stromectol 3 mg msd buy metformin tablets bp 500mg how long am i contagious herpes taking valtrex kegunaan digoxin 0.25 mg cutting down quetiapine from 100mg to 50mg ttc anytime of clomid can i get preg cialis dosage 24 age buy cheap priligy uk can you take propranolol without food how do you use ketoconazole soap zoloft 250 mg dosage what is levothyroxine 75 mcg dry cervical mucus mobic capsules 15mg meloxicam 15 mg 30 capsules how does lisinopril interact wiht wafarin indian adalat amoxicillin trihydrate rodexxil for acne cephalexin vs ciprofloxacin for uti epididimytis can azithromycine tablet be use to cure gonorreah manfaat dari ketoconazole 200mg bactrim ds for pcp prophylaxis buy propecia online mastercard propranolol excessive saliva nexium 40 mg delayed release dosage mirtazapine 60 90 mg dose metronidazole for dogs how long to work what is.commeloxicam 15 mg used for burping glipizide and metformin seroquel and cogentin hydroxyzine 309 prednisone for swollen achilles tendon what is diltiazem 24hr er 120 mg cap erythromycin 2 tablets 4 times a day canine dosage ciprofloxacin 0.3 ear drops flagyl injection for dogs levothyroxine 150 mcg tablet no prescription ic paroxetine hcl 30 mg cost 1 pill dutasteride 0 5mg usos medicinales empiresafety.com switching from mirtazapine to paroxetine what to expect augmentin sangue feci does 20 mg of how does cymbalta work for pain diflucan australia side effects of atenolol10mg side effects of 40mg of prednisone in dogs norvasc price in pakistan side effects spiramycine metronidazole para que sirve la ciprofloxacin metformin side effects stool bactrium antibiotic cost can azithromycin be used for expectorant does metformin and yasmin helps fibroid and pcos amoxicillin toothache online uk voltaren forte ja alkoholi slika zoloft tablets kroger zovirax cream no prescription zovirax ointment cause thrush can you buy azithromycin over the counter in france 5mg digoxin flagyl and tylenol pm valacyclovir hcl 1 gram tablet price gabapentin how many mgs orkzbar.nl is amoxicillin 250 capsule safe for a 1year old baby buy maxalt rpd information metformin and elevated lfts nexium 20 mg precio en estados unidos how to shoot up doxepin etodolac 188 whrye i can buy. kamagra orall jelhly in philippines propecia finpecia cost norvasc 30 mg indocin get you high cost propecia merck lipitor drug specific counseling information cordarone in fisiologica quanto costa seroquel da 25 mg effects of chewing amoxil capsules bupropion xl 150 mg and dexedrine meloxicam cada 8 horas thuoc acyclovir stada 400mg can i smoke pot and take metronidazole lexapro di indonesia lisinopril efectos adversos actos generic cost walmart cialis price pill baclofen mims 10mg prednisone for 3 days generic drug montelukast levocetirizine generic diltiazem does buspar cut ur desire for alchol lexapro 40 mg per day buy levitra medicaid atorvastatin sandoz recall flagyl tablets 400mg used for glucophage for pcod buy tamoxifen terbinafine 9 months how much is viagra on the street dosage of prednisone for a 25 pound dog harga cytotec di apotik can you take flagyl and levaquin at the sametime muscle atrophy prednisone dogs viagra generic online india buspar 60 mg a day nzjetski.co.nz can i take codeine and rizatriptan together meloxicam 3 mg target generic lamisil cream maxalt mg cialis professional shop cvs borger price viagra will taking prometrium cure nausea prazosin 1 mg tablets doxycycline 100mg acne rosacea 1 500mg tablet of flagyl, how long to drink alcohol amaryl 4 mg dosage bieropholie.com amaryl 1 mg composition glucophage 500 mg xr nizoral shampoo online usa doxycycline hydrochloride tablets 100mg tamoxifen tablets vs miscarriage does nexium contain magnesium or alumium pain in side of calf cipro empiresafety.com buy phenergan syrup online can topamax cause thc to stay in your system longer albuterol nebulizer dosage for 6 month old things to avoid on.zoloft barneptun.pl piroxicam 93 757 nortriptyline 25mg side effects nzjetski.co.nz topamax without insurance generic trazodone pliva topamax 60 quetiapine fummarate 25 mg frequency of taking fluconazole for ringworm treatment can a onr year old have proventil inhaler price comparison viagra walgreens topiramate 50 mg does it have aspirin order misoprostol no prescription insulin prednisone interaction dogs concor x atenolol amoxicillin upotreba baclofen vs lyrica revista 21 argentina pct with nolvadex only clonidine and premature ejaculation lisinopril 10 mg pink pill nameai.com prednisone price australia se puede consumir alcohol despues de tomar cytotec does buspar hcl help with anger mdma depression citalopram when will you take your trigger shot on clomid it.rbu.ac.in metoprolol 50 mg price in india patient reviews of diltiazem cd bactrim cost amoxicillin 1000 mg 3 times a day rash while adult taking amoxicillin how much is allegra at costco kamagra 24 levitra tablets in lahore pakistan 20mg lexapro depression cloudy urine on antidepressants stopping lexapro side effects philipin bu y and sell misoprostol cytotec f nortriptyline side effects uk beda salep ketoconazole dan salep miconazole dayquil safe to take on 25 mg metoprolol tartrate buspar 4mg plavix prices costco canada can synthroid be taken with a sleeping pill monthly cost of clopidogrel tofranil 300 mg seroquel plus graprfruit juice stoping for days during my period after using clomid buying lexapro australia what is the strongest strenth of cialis being on topamax and lamictal does topiramate cause facial hair nitroglycerin controlled realease tablet bactrim how many days viagra australia suppliers cuantos gr de meloxicam para abortar misoprostol 3 doses empiresafety.com nursing implications for albuterol sulfate comprei tres cytotec de 200g como devo usar kamagra gel gdje se prodaje erowid misoprostol flagyl pret obat ketoconazole buat ibu menyusui how long does prednisone take to work for pinched nerve misoprostol de 200mcg puede detener la hemorragia what does digoxin pill look like day 1 on wellbutrin xl50 dose for amoxicillin ardine plavix 75 mg sanofi aventis fluconazole tablet course can 500mg of azithromycin cure chlamydia and gonorrhea is it safe to take diflucan and tetracycline cytotec price davao how do you take sildenafil sandoz 100 mg tablets diltiazem for sale harga levofloxacin voltaren 25 neye iyi gelir tamoxifen joint pain levonorgestrel 0.15mg ethinylestradiol 30 micrograms nuez dela india warfarin nameai.com celexa side effects after 3 month citalopram 5 mg anxiety will 300 mg of trazodone kill me manfaat zovirax aciclovir cream 5g misoprostol 400 mg tablets in india holidayhome.rbu.ac.in metoprolol tartrate and pomegranate can you drink alcohol with ciprofloxacin hcl prednisone prostate cancer is levitra available through the va terbinafine mylan tablet 250 mg dexamethasone hasiatnya buy viagra pharmacy online levofloxacin 500 mg for sinus infection mirtazapine 15 mg enfikasyonlari buy zithromax in italy lamisil cream can hal ringworm ubicinc.com vibramycin 100 mg dispersible tablets is itching a side effect of gabapentin how much phenergan can a 6 year old take mirtazapine 7.5mg can you buy nizoral in ireland lexapro coupon costco qualitest prednisone 5 mg dosepak instructions rzltt.com what color does viagra come in flagyl tablets 250 mg travelbllgr.com buy premarin australia thuoc zovirax 2g how long do you take fluconazole 50 mg order online antibiotics testicle prednisone 10mg pack directions usage du medicament inderal 40g cialis 60 nameai.com propecia online natural replacement for glucophage atorvastatin 40 mg discount coupon finasteride effect after 2 years gibt es in holland doxepin 10mg taking lexapro a week after geodone buy zyban india prednisone 5mg for sale what is the activity of thyroxine paroxetine oremature alternatives can levofloxacin hcl be used for typhoid treatment obat vardenafil can you use metformin to lose weight tbi elavil for sleep 10 mg does seroquel make your pupils small travelbllgr.com what does sildenafil citrate do malfunction of baclofen pump icd 9 code montelukast 10 mghow does it help chloramphenicol for 1 year old cipro contraindecatons for sinus holidayhome.rbu.ac.in buspar 60 mg side effects will zofran how to stop nausea from hangover topamax 25 mg twice a day 500 mg amitriptyline kill someone provera quantos dias



Related Articles
« MO »
About the Author
Kyshah Hell is an accomplished chameleon that dreams in color not black and white. This somewhat Celtic Yankee W.A.S.P. fancies herself a Gothic Glamour Punk. “I could never pigeon hole myself into a single category. I have too much fun playing dress-up across the board.”

Ms. Hell lives in Danbury, CT. with the love of her life, Steve, and her soul mate Glamour Puss, the pre-requisite black cat. Send accolades and anti-Goth slurs to her via e-mail.
« MO »

   

   

   

   

   


Victorian Mourning Garb
Kyshah Hell
Today the word “Victorian” refers to a certain highly ornate style of architecture, furnishings, and fashion. It is a style that most people of the Gothic persuasion look at with romantic longing. The 19th century cemeteries that cover most of America today are the most visible and recognizable symbol of this bygone era. But the one element of Victorian style that continues to fascinate us is the mourning fashions of the day.
The Victorian age was named for England’s Queen Victoria. She took the throne in 1837 and died on January 22, 1901. Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert, died of typhoid in 1861. During this period of forty years, the Queen was in mourning. She remained in full mourning for three years and dressed the entire court that way. The Victorian era reflected the Queen’s prudish ethics as well as, most visibly, her personal taste in mourning.
Victorian mourning fashion was aimed mainly at women, widows in particular. The fashion had a way of isolating a widow in her time of need just as the Queen had done. For the first year, a woman who was in mourning was not allowed to exit her home with out full black attire and a weeping veil. Her activities were initially restricted to church services. But mourning attire was the perfect way to show the wealth and respectability of a woman. Some went so far as to dress their servants for mourning when the head of the household passed away. Middle and lower class women would go to great lengths to appear fashionable in times of mourning. Dying clothing black and then bleaching them out again was quite common. The industry of mourning became so vital to tailors that rumors were spread concerning the bad luck of recycling funeral attire. Hair art also developed in the Victorian era to allow family members to keep mementos of their departed loved ones.
Mourning clothing was an unmistakable and intricate part of life in the 19th century. The act of proper Victorian mourning seems an art today. Certain lengths and stages of mourning as well as colors and fabrics all contributed to this language.
Stages
In nineteenth century England, a widow was expected to remain in mourning for over two years. The rules were slightly less rigid for American women.
These stages of mourning were observed by women.
Full mourning, a period of a year and one day, was represented with dull black clothing without ornament. The most recognizable portion of this stage was the weeping veil of black crepe. If a women had no means of income and small children to support, marriage was allowed after this period. There are cases of women returning to black clothing on the day after marrying again.
Second mourning, a period of nine months, allowed for minor ornamentation by implementing fabric trim and mourning jewelry. The main dress was still made from a lusterless cloth. The veil was lifted and worn back over the head. Elderly widows frequently remained in mourning for the rest of their lives.
Half mourning lasted from three to six months and was represented by more elaborate fabrics used as trim. Gradually easing back into color was expected coming out of half mourning. All manor of jewelry could be worn.
The standard mourning time for a widower was two years but it was up to his discretion when to end his single stage. Men could go about their daily lives and continue to work. Typically young unmarried men stayed in mourning for as long as the women in the household did.
Mourning for parents ranked next to that of widows; children mourning for their parents or parents for children being identical. One year was the standard length: six months in crepe, three in second, and three in half mourning. Second mourning, without full mourning, is suitable for parents-in-law. After one month in black, lilac should follow.
Young children were never kept more than one year in mourning. No female under the age of 17 was to wear creped full mourning.
Fabrics
Most of the fabrics associated with Victorian life are no longer in use today, partially due to the invention of modern synthetic fabrics, but also because many Victorian fabrics are too expensive to manufacture today.
A full widow’s weeds (archaic word for garment) in the mid 19th century required a crepe dress with a plain collar and broad weepers cuffs made of white muslin, a bombazine mantle (cloak), and a crepe bonnet with veil for outdoors. A widow’s cap was for indoor use.
Crepe, used for the veil and trim, is the fabric most associated with mourning. The fabric is made from silk and similar to crepe de chine; in this instance “crepe” refers to the crinkled surface of the lightweight fabric. Mourning crepe was made from gummed tightly twisted silk threads. It was a volatile and hazardous fabric. In the rain, it would shrivel and practically disintegrate. Rainproof crepe was introduced at the turn of the 20th century, but it didn’t change things much. Constant breathing through the fabric caused many respiratory health problems.
Dresses were made from henrietta and melrose trimmed with crepe. Henrietta cloth was a twilled fabric with a silk warp and worsted weft that has the appearance of a twilled front and smooth back, and the feel of cashmere. Melrose was a linen named for the town in Scotland it came from. Bombazine was used by the less affluent in the beginning of the Victorian era. It was a fabric that mixed silk and wool.
As the crepe wore out it was removed and replaced with fresh material. An economical woman could use an old dress in full mourning; some women dyed a dress black for this purpose.
Caps, cuffs, and collars could all be made from lawn. The name comes from the town Laon in the north of France. The fabric is a linen that was used mainly for garments worn by the clergy. A fine, sheer, plain-weave cotton, made from high quality yarns. For the less affluent, collars and cuffs were also made from muslin, a variety of cotton weaves originally made in the Middle East. (Today’s muslin is incredibly coarse by comparison.)
Cuffs of lawn were 9" long, according to the size of the wrist. The fabric was not intended to overlap, but to meet; they were fastened with two buttons and loops placed at the upper and lower edges. These large cuffs were referred to as weepers because one could use them to wipe the nose during crying fits.
Mourning handkerchiefs were made from cambric. It is a plain, soft linen fabric, sometimes also woven in cotton, with a slight lustrous finish on the face of the cloth. Cambric is woven in the north of France in many grades from fine to coarse.
Petticoats were made from silk and stuft. Stockings were of cashmere, silk, or balbriggan. Balbriggan eventually came to refer to the underwear made from the cloth. It was a lightweight, single weft knitted cotton fabric often lightly napped on one side. The fabric is inherently elastic, hence the undergarments, but it ran easily.
Gloves were constructed from kid, leather made from a young goat, also known as kidskin. It is incredibly soft and supple. Towards the later half of the 19th century, wearing fur became fashionable in America. Mourning women were only allowed the blackest animal pelts. This included black sealskin, the darkest sheared beaver, and astrakhan, which was the curly pelt of a newborn Persian lamb.
Colors
The color black best represented the Victorian act of mourning because it symbolizes the absence of light and in turn, life. It was an instantly recognizable sign that a loved one had departed this life. It is also said that wearing black for mourning comes from a Roman idea; the mourners could prevent being haunted from the ghost of the deceased by cloaking themselves in black.
Black was not the only color that signaled mourning. In full mourning, white was used for cuffs and collars. By half mourning a woman had a bevy of colors to choose from, by comparison. Grey, mauve, purple, lavender, lilac, and white could all be implemented. Deep reds such as burgundy were also fashionable in the late Victorian era. Subtle prints using any combination of these colors were also allowed. This trend was more popular in the south because of the weather. Dressing in full white, including the weeping veil, was a sign of mourning in the tropics.
Children’s garments were white with black trim in the summer and gray with black trim in the winter. This was mostly for infants and girl’s between the ages of 15 and 17. Children under the age of 15 were thought not to be able to handle the grief brought on by assuming mourning. A girl was considered a woman at 17 and could be in full mourning if a loved one was to die.
Jewelry
Although mourning jewelry has been produced for nearly two thousand years, it reached its peak in Victorian England at the later half of the 19th Century. The height in American popularity came during the Civil War.
The material most associated with Victorian mourning is Jet. Queen Victoria popularized this “black amber” after the death of her beloved Prince Albert. Jet is a variety of fossilized coal. The most prized and expensive is from Whitby, England where it has been washing up on shore since prehistoric times. Jet has an appearance similar to black glass which is used as a modern substitute. In first mourning Jet jewelry was the only ornamentation women were allowed.
By second and half mourning jewelry made from gutta-percha, gold, pinchbeck, and human hair were incorporated into the wardrobe. Gutta-percha is natural latex obtained from evergreen trees in East Asia. It was the first plastic material used for costume jewelry. It is a Jet imitator that was quite a bit less expensive. Today gutta-percha can be found, amongst other uses, covering golf balls. Pinchbeck is a false gold used for inexpensive jewelry during the 19th Century.
Hair art became popular in the Victorian age. What started as a simple way to keep a loved one near became an elaborate art practiced by many. Taking a lock of hair and weaving it into knot designs for use in a broach was the most popular form of Victorian mourning jewelry. Rings, bracelets, earrings, watch fobs and necklaces all became quite common in the later portion of the century. Today this art is prized by collectors and family historians alike.
The End of an Era
In 1901, the Edwardian period followed the death of Queen Victoria. In part, the world came out of mourning with her passing. Fashion changed and women were no longer so rigidly dictated to by the strict Victorian code of etiquette.
In America, the change in mourning had been brewing long before Victoria’s death. The Civil War helped to instigate this change. The war lasted from 1861 to 1865, and approximately 618,000 soldiers died. Twice as many Southern soldiers died than Northern and practically the whole population of the South was in mourning. The depression that all the women in black caused added to an already grieving nation. At one point the governor of Mississippi actually tried to pass a law banning Victorian mourning garb because of the low morale of the people. War changed America’s rigid mourning rules out of neccessity.
As the world was changing at the dawn of the 20th century, so were the societies’ values. Sexual repression, via an uptight civilization, was no longer the norm. In today’s society, death has become a private affair as sex has become the public affair. Sex was an unmentionable in Victorian society yet death held no mystery at all. Wakes of great length were held where flowers were employed to mask the stench. Today many people are afraid even to look into an open casket. Mourning clothing allowed Victorian women to publicly deal with their grief. It forced them to acknowledge the tragedy. Today one can easily ignore death for any period of time. As Freud pointed out society is defined by its repressions.
The Victorian ideal of mourning filtered out of the American conscience as cities grew. Modes of transportation quickened, large scale tragedy brought women into the workplace and gave them better things to do than dress in mourning. Industry had taken over and people lived in a more modern and efficient society. The romantic cordiality, that so appeals to the Goths, was all but gone.
Resources

Collier’s Cyclopedia 1901 “Victorian Mourning Customs”
Harpers Bazar April 17, 1886 “Mourning and Funeral Usages”, “Death in the Victorian Family” by Pat Jalland.
“Daily life in Victorian England” by Sally Mitchell
“Victorian America. Transformations in everyday life 1876-1915” by Thomas J. Schlereth
“Death, Grief, & Mourning” Geoffrey Gorer. 1965 Doubleday

Recommended reading:
The Victorian Underworld” by Donald Thomas
Peterson’s Magazine reprints from 1863 and 1864

Links:
www.history.rochester.edu/godeys
Godey’s Lady’s Book issues from the 1850’s.
www.nmfh.org
National Museum of Funeral History in Houston Texas.
Azrael’s Accomplice
Azrael’s Accomplice clothing company. Batty will make you a reproduction mourning gown.
www.fabriclink.com/dictionary.html
The educational resource for fabrics, apparel, home fashion and care.
www.hairworksociety.org
Victorian hair work society on line.
The Museum of Mourning Art is located at Arlington cemetery in Drexel, PA
(Just a half hour from Philly)
Phone # 601-259-5800