While it is a popular belief that consumerism has driven society’s preoccupation with appearance to unrealistic heights, this obsession with self is no different now than it was in Ancient Egypt. Excavation sites have yielded an extensive array of toiletries dating back to the Old Kingdom. They range from highly polished bronze mirrors, perfumes, and cosmetics to razors and rubbing oils.

Aside from these accoutrements, the fashion of the time was amazingly simple and didn’t deviate throughout the millennium so much as it did by social status. Due to the climate, there was little call for more than a loincloth, and this is precisely what slaves and commoners wore; complete nudity was considered base and uncivilized. With status came luxury and this meant additional clothing and jewelry. The garment styles were often simply made, yet extravagantly accessorized, and meant bring out the shape of the wearer’s body, particularly the shoulders, hips, and waist.

Cloth was often woven from flax, which was an Egyptian staple at the time. Wool was considered impure and though cloaks were acceptable, they were considered taboo in temples. Light weight and easy to clean, linen was the textile of choice, and white the most sacred color. Typically pleated, linen clothing was usually loose and flowing, despite the sheath-like quality it was depicted as in ancient art.

In the Old Kingdom (3200-2423 BC), women’s gowns usually consisted of a short, tight bodice and a wide skirt, fastened in the back with thin cords. With the New Kingdom (1580-1090 BC), came the calasiris, a kind of tunic-gown worn over the loincloth. It was seamed and held with a corded girdle. Common women wore this garment as a plain smock, accompanied by a leather belt or cords of colored beads. Women of rank could wear the calasiris loosely or swathed and decorated with golden straps, ribbons, or appliqué designed to resemble plumage. These designs were meant to insinuate the wings of Isis.

While both men and women could wear most gowns and tunics, only men could wear the shenti or loincloth. Often a simple, straight white cloth, it was sometimes folded in place or held by a thick girdle. Princes, after the sixteenth century BC, wore a royal haik that consisted of a large veil held by a single knot at the base of the neck, yet wound around the body so as to appear as a short kilt, tunic, and cloak. Pharaohs and their Queens donned the pschent, or kepresh : a closely fitted tiara, colored to indicate the region in which they ruled (ex: white for Lower Egypt and red for Upper Egypt). Many times these were worn over striped cloth headdresses fitted around the temples, and falling into square folds behind the ears. Men of lower rank wore simpler versions of these headpieces, often over closely shaved heads.

Wigs, while worn by both sexes, were more ornamental on women. Coiled, plaited, dressed with gold pieces and flowers, the styles were both varied and extravagant. Often, the lady’s hair was longer than that of the wig and could be seen peeking out at the bottom. These pieces were highly valued and usually dressed and cared for by slaves nightly. The Middle Kingdom (1580-1090 BC) introduced a shorter, square cut wig, later lengthening with the addition of fringe. Cones made of fat or wax soaked in sweet scented oils would be worn on top of the hairpiece, slowly melting in the heat, giving off a pleasant perfume.

Other ornaments included earrings, pendants and necklaces that were often large and made of golden wire and disks, or glass beads. For those of higher rank, precious stones such as lapis, turquoise and jasper were used. Anklets were also very popular and served to accentuate the feet as shoes themselves remained very plain and functional. Sandals were sized to wearer’s feet and held in place with a leather thong attached to three wooden pegs. Today, while the segregation of rank is not so severe, volumes can be inferred about a person by their wardrobe alone. Your income, your status, your general place in society. Ironically, despite the increasing availability of accessories purchased solely for their aesthetic value, many luxuries remain a status symbol (after all, how many Velda Lauder corsets do you own?). In fashion, these are the recurring themes that echo throughout history.