

Re: Not Just The Clothes
Mistress McCutchan
After posting the provocative article, Not Just The Clothes, we welcomed our readers response. Heres what our readers shared.
Marquis Dufek wrote:
I have the same sense of being perplexed as you in this regard: I cant figure out how a culture that celebrates individuality, freedom and sexual decadence came to attract the fascist element. All I can guess is that it really is just the black clothes that made them feel like theyd be welcome among goths.
Kevin Dunn of Middle Pillar wrote:
I do not find it fair that Mick very casually makes an assumption that
neo-folk bands are all pretty much Nazi right-wing bands. Its also very
clear, that regardless of the bands assumed political beliefs, Mick
doesnt like that style of music. So be it. I prefer to think that
neo-folk has as many examples of wretched-ness or beauty as does any
other style, genre, or sub-genre of music.
Mick also glances over the fetish/sexual aspect of the Nazi symbolism on
clothing. Indeed, I do think that perhaps the whole point of it is to be
shocking in some small way; to get a reaction, to let the public know
that wearing dangerous clothing makes one dangerous, even sixty years
after WW2. I think doing so in groups isnt necessarily a political
movement, as much a need for participants to be dangerous in a safe,
supportive environment. I do agree with Mick that its kind of pathetic
to wear a swastika publicly or privately, and I thought so back when I
saw Siouxsie Sioux and Rozz Williams wear them. On a small scale I like
to think Im able to separate the acts of the attention seeking from
actual Nazis, though I admit it would be much harder to do so if I was
suddenly faced with a rally of those wearing Nazi regalia.
I think what really bothered me was:
Genuine artists in the neo scene can move sideways into other scenes
and be seen to be blameless. The rest can rot.
I think this statement so early in Micks essay (which gives it a much
stronger message than his obvious quip about it being OK to beat on
right-wing music fans at Leipzig 2002, which appears later on) is pretty
unfair to the many talented musicians who enjoy being in the neo-folk
scene; should they be forced to move into other genres to remain
respected? Perhaps at gunpoint?
To those who enjoy playing dark folk (or apocalyptic folk or neo-folk)
and arent Nazis, whether they suck musically or not. Its a flaw in
Micks logic when an artist that doesnt fit his mold of sucking and
being a Nazi should be forced to move onto another genre for to his
hypothesis to hold.
Additionally I think his essay is unfair to those who just enjoy the
music, or perhaps the mysticism, and dont get off on owning an SS
uniform. It is equally unfair, perhaps ironically, to the artists in
that scene that truly are amazing musicians, regardless of their
personal political beliefs.
Ereshkigal told us:
I was quite saddened by Mick Mercers comments on the Guardian article, since I have always enjoyed his writings and was surprised to see him falling into such obvious stereotypes. It seems based in the fact that he doesnt like neo-folk very much, which is his right (and some of it is quite crap too), but to make such a huge association with it is disingenous, to say the last. The first time I met a London-based black Death In June fan, she laughed about this very issue (since this is the only thing which ever seems to be discussed in relation to DIJ and related bands!) and pointed out that most of the brace n para-wearing skinheads at gigs were gay, and usually in couples. This is just an anecdotal account, but surely it illustrates the fallacy of judging someones personality and politics by their clothes?
Isnt that exactly what we goths have had to put up with for decades (along with members of many a subculture)? No, we wearily explain for the millionth time, Im not a vampire. I dont even like the whole vampire thing very much. No, Ive never drunk anybodys blood. Im actually a vegetarian. No, I dont worship Satan.
Now I suppose well be defending ourselves from accusations of Nazism as well. Its all very well saying you are only targeting a few idiots, but you are doing so on the basis of their clothing, which seems somewhat dubious.
Why is it that it is OK to condone violence against fascism if it is precisely the presumed violence of fascism which puts it beyond the pale? I found this sort of comment more than a little sickening:
At a Treffen event (was it 2002?) some left-wingers attacked the neo-community at some performance. Ironically, the sound of baseball bats against Nazi bones was probably more rhythmical and melodious than the band involved, but when I had people contacting me to see what I thought, it was again noticeable that when I said I thought this was the perfect answer to the problem, the e-mails stopped. Clearly I was being courted as a potential spokesman! Wankers.
Since when has it been acceptable to use violence against someone because of their political opinion, however unattractive? More to the point, you are not referring to a political rally here but to a gig! As far as I was aware, people went to these things to enjoy music, however unmelodic. It may be that the comment was meant flippantly, but then, I suppose Siouxies swastika armband was too. And I dont see anyone claiming that listening to the Banshees is symptomatic of right-wing tendencies. I seem to recall Bowies Nazi salute sprung out of a period of intense occult interest and perturbed the record-buying public for a while, but no-one seriously believes hes a Nazi now or that it was anything more than a phase, or even a bit of visual provocation. Suggesting that we should be going up to people in public telling them what to wear seems pretty fascistic in itself. As a vegetarian, I consider eating animals to be murder, pure and simple, but I dont rush up to people eating burgers and slap them out of their hands screaming abuse, because that is no way to behave if we want to live in a (relatively) peaceful society.
Michelle Spider asked:
I must be screwed! Laibach, Current 93, and Death in June are in my collection. Does this make me a Nazi-supporter?
Ryan wrote in to say:
I really didnt believe this was an issue in America; Ive always seen the gothic scene generally as a bunch of awkward intellectuals who embraced diversity. Things may be really different in Europe, but as far as I can say, its really unfair to label all neo-folk as Nazi, just because one doesnt care for that type of music.
Diann wrote to tell us:
The swastika has been used for thousands of years in various cultures as a symbol of the changing seasons, luck, joy, and life. Perhaps the reason why it was adopted by the Third Reich was because Hitler wanted to use this divine symbol to raise himself as a divine entity or ruler of all.
I find it strange that various musicians I like (David Bowie, Siouxsie, Sid Vicious, Rozz Williams) wore it for shock value. Its a really confusing message. Although the swastikas meaning is misunderstood, due to the abuse of this symbol, I think it is a really dangerous symbol to wear. I believe more people should take a look at the history of this symbol and find out what it really means. Heres a link I found that is both interesting and useful:
www.iearn.org/hgp/aeti/aeti-1997/swastika.html
Mick Mercer replied:
Kevin Yes, I dont like it, so my article came out stressing that but of
course I dont assume all artists involved are nazis or have a widespread interest in it. Maybe thats why I say, I feel sorry for the genuine Pagan artists who have only their belief in genuine gentle Earth matters and their deities, and care nothing for the Nazi creed? I think hope a lot more will have the anti-nazi swastika-in-the-bin logo on their records. Given the deep suspicion cast over the scene in Germany it would be quite natural for artists involved to categorically state they have no truck with such matters. Thats why I say move sideways; in recognising doubts now exist in so many peoples eyes, clarification is required. The orginal article which sparked this off shows how people in and around the scene, on both sides,
know how pervasive the nazi elements are in invading the scene (activists, not artists) and that changes the scene itself. They know more than me. They
give the article its authenticity and thats what I was reponding to. I knew Germans in the early to mid 90s who had already highlighted such a shift in behaviour. I am not anti neo-folk artists, as artists, but when a scene becomes soured by dark currents encircling it and then infecting, it reminds
me of how Punk became similarly polluted by ring wing thugs with the Oi movement in the UK.
As for the Fetish element, I think adults dressing as nazis in public I couldnt care less what their wholly private pursuits are and thinking theyre being risque is pathetic and insulting to others, which is why its arrogant.
I accept I have a blunt style sometimes, but Im prepared to say what I think, where a lot wont touch it, and I try and temper any personal bias
with perspective gained from previous experiences.
Ryan At no point do I say ALL neo-folk is Nazi.
Anyone who laughs about DIJs early antics doesn't know whats involved. It wasnt funny in the slightest. If theyre still regarded with suspicion (including being monitored by anti-fascist groups) its their own fault.
Ereshkigal as a vegetarian I dont accost meat-eaters either, but my girlfriend likes burgers. Up to her. At the Treffen event, the people
attacked had turned up wearing nazi insignia and outfits mimicking Hitler Youth costumes (not people turning up and being taken/mistaken for nazis).
Find it sickening if you like, but from my experience, through several decades, if people arent confronted physically they go on and on and the
situation will worsen. Most of the nazi skinheads who attended gigs during the late 70s/early 80s didnt bother with political rallies. They just turned up in their droves at gigs, because they found that form of intimidation safer. When punks fought back things improved and they crept
away. Wed all like a delightful peaceful world but that solves nothing when a situation turns sour.
Glitter Geisha commented:
Im a German Goth who has lived in London (UK) for the past 10 years. Given that both Flirting With Hitler and Not Just The Clothes indulge in a fair amount of Kraut bashing, Im writing in defence of Germany and the German Goth scene.
I have no sympathies whatsoever for Nazi and related ideas, Im not into Black Metal or Neo-Folk and I dont own or wear Nazi memorabilia but Im concerned that Flirting With Hitler apparently served as the catalyst for the Goths and Neo-Nazis feature. I can understand the concerned readers reaction to the article (Id be as horrified as the next Goth if our subculture was to become a breeding ground for Neo-Nazis). It is, however, important to be aware that the newspaper in which the article appeared is notorious for having a real bee in its bonnet about Goths. The Guardian was one of the first British newspapers to blame Goths for the Columbine high school shooting and has since printed a number of articles on Goths that have all been extremely negative. Flirting With Hitler represents the highlight of the Guardians efforts so far.
I agree that, on the surface, the article may appear to be well researched but upon closer inspection, there are serious flaws. While it starts out
saying that only a small percentage of German Goths are Neo-Nazis it then goes on to claim that the percentage is rising (without offering any
credible proof). It does not mention any of the anti-far right initiatives within the German Goth scene and doesnt even distinguish between Goth on
the one hand and Black Metal and Neo-Folk on the other but just lumps them all together, thus creating a bigger pool of bands and individuals (e.g. Henrik Moebius) to warn the Guardians readership about. As a result, the article ends up sounding as if the far right is infiltrating the German Goth scene virtually unopposed, which is totally untrue.
In its print version in the Guardians weekend magazine, the article was
spread over several pages, showing pictures of Nuremberg Rally Goths
(dressed in black not in uniforms), as opposed to normal Goths (dressed
in white). There were swastikas and SS runes printed next to the pictures
in a manner that left it unclear if they were decoration at a gig, part of
somebodys outfit, taken from a CD cover or just put there by the Guardian
to prove its point. Thats hardly what I consider balanced reporting.
Flirting With Hitler caused a storm of protest amongst Goths in the UK when it originally appeared and the Guardian received a flood of complaint letters (including one from me). While there was a wealth of different opinions, the vast majority of UK Goths disagreed profoundly with the
findings of the article, as, for example, this thread from the uk.people.gothic newsgroup illustrates (there was another excellent thread on slashgoth.org but it seems to have become the victim of the server
belly-up that wiped out their archives).
Sadly, not only the Guardian but also Mick Mercer portrays all Germans as potential Nazis who always had the problem. Hell, they nurtured it until it exploded, and since the war, the wounds have been constantly licked and allowed to fester once more. He has evidently no idea what he is talking about. Having lived in Germany for 20+ years, I can assure you that Germans are doing anything but licking their wounds. Im afraid I never read your interview with Mindy Kumbalek but I can confirm that the far right is indeed taken very seriously in Germany, perhaps more than in other countries, and Im grateful that you included her statement as a footnote.
Germany has a whole range of anti-Nazi laws, not because they are badly needed to contain the rampant support for far right groups but to make sure
that history doesnt repeat itself, for whatever reason. For example, it is illegal to buy, sell, own, display or wear Nazi symbols, as is doing the
Hitler salute (it carries a prison sentence of 4 years). I was quite shocked when I discovered that in the UK, a country that is positively
obsessed with WWII and frequently criticised for it, you can buy Nazi memorabilia freely at any flea market.
German kids are taught as soon as they are old enough to understand that something like the Third Reich must never happen again. My school went to
great lengths to make us kids understand how shameful Germanys Nazi past was, to the point of us feeling almost guilty for being German. They did
certainly not try to make excuses for WWII and the Holocaust or bring us up to be good little Nazis. Instead, amongst other things, we were shipped to
Auschwitz on a school trip to show us the horrible things Germans had done in the not-so-distant past and were not allowed to talk, chew gum or wear a
scrap of makeup while we were there. It was traumatic for a bunch of 16 year olds, as Im sure it was meant to be.
Far right (and far left) political activity in Germany is constantly monitored by the Verfassungsschutz, which reports annually on its findings.
I actually read the entire 2001 edition of the Verfassungsschutzbericht after reading the Guardian article (2002 hadnt been published yet). It
mentions exactly one band as being considered far right (Von Thronstahl) and one music label (Signal) carrying a small handful of Darkwave bands that are seen as far right because they are on that particular label. But on every occasion when mentioning the Goth scene, the report also states clearly that there are only very few bands that fall into that category and that the scene as a whole is to be considered harmless. Even in the
Guardian article, Mr Boos (the boss of the Verfassungsschutz) is quoted as saying that the Goth scene is not to be confused with right-wing extremism and that the use of Nazi symbols is in almost all cases done for shock value, not for political reasons. The overall findings of the
Verfassungsschutz on far right political activity in Germany are that, while far right groups and their supporters are not increasing in numbers, the
existing groups are becoming more prone to violence. While this is sad, it actually contradicts the articles claim that the far right is gaining
ground in Germany (a fact its author conveniently ignored).
German Goths arent any closer to being Neo-Nazis or any more susceptible to Nazi propaganda than UK or US Goths. On the contrary, I believe that German Goths are probably more acutely aware of far right influences, due to the fact that Germans are constantly reminded about their shameful past (there
have been cases where bands have been criticised purely for singing in German instead of English). Im not denying that far right elements are
trying to infiltrate the German Goth scene via the Black Metal and Neo-Folk fringes. However, the German Goth scene is aware of that and there are
numerous organisations that are working to raise awareness within the scene, for example Gothics Culture e.V. and Gruftis Gegen Rechts. Articles on the
subject have appeared in major German Goth magazines like Zillo and Gothic and bands like Das Ich, who are tirelessly promoting the Gothic subculture
have been speaking out against the far right for years.
The fact that the German Goth scene is one of the largest and most prominent in the world is not connected to a general rise of Nazism in Germany, but to
the fact that the most popular Goth bands (and I mean Goth and related, not Black Metal or Neo-Folk) are currently German. Consequently, the German
Goth scene is thriving. Of course, there are assholes in every demographic group and Goths are no exception. Unfortunately, the bigger the demographic
group the bigger its contingent of assholes and in Germany there are just more Goths per capita than anywhere else. As a result, the contingent of
assholes within the German Goth scene is probably bigger as well, especially around the fringes. The Rudas were a particularly ugly example of that. We
should, however, be careful not to fall into the same trap as the author of Flirting With Hitler or indeed Mick Mercer and make sweeping assumptions based on a few deluded individuals, aided by prejudice.
Im sorry if this post has turned into a sort of mammoth rant but this is a topic I feel very strongly about. Being German and a Goth, it is a bit of adouble whammy for me. It is unpleasant enough to be seen as a suicidal, baby-sacrificing, blood-drinking psycho killer by certain concerned members of the public. I can very well do without the Nazi tag. Attempted infiltration of the Goth scene by far right elements is not an exclusively German phenomenon, just as Black Metal and Neo-Folk are not predominantly German and many Neo-Folk bands (and most Black Metal bands) arent German either. Yet it is a sad fact that, no matter how young you are or what your political conviction, if you happen to be German people automatically assume that you carry the Nazi gene and that it is only a matter of time and circumstance until your true colours start shining through. Having lived in the UK since 1993, I know what Im talking about.
Mick Mercer writes that it isnt a big problem in the UK, thats for sure. We have the far right growing because of the asylum issue running out of control; ours will die down again once the problem is stabilised. Such confidence in an innate goodness based on your nationality is as delusional as it is dangerous. Delusional because far right tendencies, such as xenophobia, exist in every country and dangerous because the notion that they are a national character trait and consequently some nationalities are immune to it creates a false sense of security.
Cypher responded:
I want to say right up front that I agree with Mercers disdainful attitude toward anyone who embraces Nazism for its aesthetic appeal (or
for any other reason actually). I do have to disagree with him on one count however. Mercer writes, Everything to do with Nazis is the
complete opposite of Goth, which stands for the soppier side of romantic imagery and on its deeper side its the rights and dignity and intelligence of the individual. Granted, I come to goth by way of late eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Gothic literature, but Gothicism in general is fascinated by moral transgression, morbidity and, notably, perverse power dynamics of dominance and submission. The titillation of scenes in Matthew Monk Lewis, Radcliffe, Poe, Stoker and even contemporary gothicists such as Rice frequently derives from quasi-pornographic sequences in which one character exercises domination over another. Nazism is a contemporary manifestation of this desire to exercise control over others (or to serve as voyeur to such sequences) that is clearly a dark fantasy at the root of much Gothic literature... and music.
Interrogating the appeal of Nazism to contemporary goths could potentially lead to some disturbing revelations about the appeal of goth
more generally. Im not disagreeing with Mercers vigorous rejection of Nazism. However, I am suggesting that a knee-jerk rejection of any
association of goth with Nazism obscures larger questions about what goth actually is however unsettling those revelations may be.
Astrid of Blooddrop Clothing wrote in to say:
While I am quite concerned with the issue of adopting Nazi symbolism and bearing it as fashion, I am also concerned with Mercers attitude towards beating those who dress that way. Such mentality is just as destructive as the Nazis, as turning fascism into fashion, so on and so forth. We all need to strive to become more and more educated in all regards and sympathetic and/or empathetic to the world around us. It is a task indeed to try to
love your neighbor... and I regret that Ive used such a cheesy quote. Perhaps Do to your neighbor as you would do to yourself might work better, but we tend to inflict a good bit of destruction and harm upon ourselves, so that might not work either... but at the rate that were going by creating bigger and bigger gaps between one another based on various differences, soon everyone can do whatever the hell they want without any regards for the people they might hurt along the way. We need to take responsibilty for our actions and see how they effect us (consciously or unconsciously) and how that precipitates externally.
I think it is important to stand up for humanitarian values and that may mean confronting someone on their choice of clothing. Even more, its
important to come together and try to understand each other and why we make the choices we do. Sometimes we have no choice, but to make assumptions.
However, given the opportunity to learn more, we should do so.
But I have an additional issue. Not only has fascism/Nazism taken a root in gothic fashion and music, but so has violence and violent imagery. Why
doesnt this ever get addressed in the goth scene? Why is violence ok, but not fascism/Nazism? Whats the difference? (Editors Note: Thats also an interesting point. Since when did guns become a fashion accessory?)
Brandon Kutka responded:
I am not a nazi, however I cringe everytime I see extreme left wing bands use communist imagery. My family is from Eastern Europe, but it seems that communists get a free pass. Terms like comrad and solidarity upset my family very much. I like Neo-Folk and also enjoy military history, I do own both Russian and German military equipment from the period. I sometimes wear my Russian or German coats outside, but only out of interests.
And if the kids do want to wear a swastika, it is truly an offensive symbol used by assholes, if we are in free societies they should be allowed to do so.
You give a free pass to people attacking alleged nazis at the Neo-Folk with baseball bats...
Maybe you should of said its not ok for anyone to use weapons or violence against people despite their ideas or beliefs.
Feel free to add your two cents! Just e-mail us at mistress @ morbidoutlook.com
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